Hi all,
I've updated my web page and added a big pile (50) of Wilf's images =
there. This is the 4th time i've tried to get this email through! Check =
out www.surf.net.au/jmdbb/robotics.htm
David
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
> At 08:31 PM 4/20/00 EDT, you wrote:
> >
> > Yanks....! Hey watch it Ben. Our Civil War wasn't that long ago. Many
take
> > that as an insult (me maybe). Americans. Not Yanks.
>
> *sigh* i guess you get offended when we are referred to as "the colonies"
>
>
__________________________________________________
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13773 Thu, 11 Nov 1999 01:47:21 -0800 Re: 1381's in Australia beam@sgiblab.sgi.com robmc@acay.com.au Seppo seems to fit.
Rob
13774 Thu, 20 Apr 2000 22:49:27 -0600 Re: Solarizing beam@sgiblab.sgi.com=20 JVernonM@aol.com=20
In a message dated 4/19/00 11:59:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time,=20
TurtleTek@aol.com writes:
> Does anyone know if the Ucoba* can be solarized using the =
Chloroplast SE**?
> =20
> I know of the PM1, the D1, and the 1381 DLSE for solarizing. Are =
these as=20
> effective as the Chloroplast? Which do you prefer/recommend?
> =20
> What can and can't the Chloroplast solarize? And if you don't mind, =
why?=20
If=20
> these are too many questions, don't feel pressured to answer them =
all. Any=20
> answer whatsoever is appreciated.
> =20
OK, I'll give it a shot.=20
Yes, the Chloroplast should work fine for the Ucoba circuit. Use two =
of the=20
large solar cells and a 4700uF cap for starters and experiment from =
there.
I think the Chloroplast will solarize just about anything. But, I =
could be=20
wrong. The PM1 should work too. But, I've had real performance =
problems with=20
less efficient motors. The D1 will work easy with rechargeable =
batteries, but=20
I recommend Wilf's SIMD1 for your application. This will give you a =
nocturnal=20
bot, but this could be interesting as well. The 1381 won't work at all =
because it needs an inductive load to pull the circuit into =
activation. A=20
Bicore or BEAMant circuit doesn't provide this. I'm about to tackle =
this=20
problem myself right now. I have a BEAMant circuit on a good aluminum=20
platform that will be my Zenbot prototype. I'm using Portescaps so I'm =
going=20
to try the PM1 first. But, I plan to compare performance with a =
Chloroplast=20
just for giggles.=20
On another topic. The old D1 would be the perfect circuit for the =
avoidance=20
behavior recently discussed on the list. It's mushy start would lend =
it's=20
self well to detecting even slight shadows. The charge in a super cap =
could=20
be dumped into the motors and give a good zip of speed away from =
danger very=20
similar to what Bob Shannon did with Vore-n-more. I'm not sure about =
enough=20
speed to avoid a foot fall, but definite avoidance behavior or a =
flight no=20
fight response could be hooked up in a matter of minutes this way. Bob =
used a=20
limiting resistor to get the bot to pop very rapidly but retain a =
determined=20
direction. This sounds like a valid first step to a working prototype.
See ya,
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html
ICQ# 55657870
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
power=20
plants to the much bigger and heavier Cybug Scarab with quite good=20
results.
The chloroplast is also great if you need a 5V keep-alive circuit =
for any=20
microprocessor ( stamp? ) or logic circuits. I am tinkering with a =
two=20
motor walker which uses a universal shift register as the =
controller. The=20
cool thing about this shift register is that it has a FWD/BACK control =
on it for=20
quick and easy reverses! Of course, it needs a minimum 5V input =
for the=20
chip to live, but that's the cool thing about your chloroplasts! =
Please give this powerful solar engine a chance: There's no =
copyright=20
on it: Sort of like the LINUX of solar engines!
Try 'er
Craig Maynard
JCM Electronic Services
3335 Caribou Drive=20
NW
Calgary, Alberta, Canada T2L-0S4
">http://www.robotgames.com">http://www.robotgames.com
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
----- Original Message -----
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black">From:=20
title=3DJVernonM@aol.com>JVernonM@aol.com=20
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2000 =
10:27=20
PM
Subject: Re: Solarizing
In a message dated 4/19/00 11:59:27 PM Eastern Daylight =
Time,=20
TurtleTek@aol.com=20
writes:
> Does anyone know if the Ucoba* can be solarized =
using the=20
Chloroplast SE**?
>
> I know of the PM1, the =
D1, and=20
the 1381 DLSE for solarizing. Are these as
> effective as =
the=20
Chloroplast? Which do you prefer/recommend?
> =
> What=20
can and can't the Chloroplast solarize? And if you don't mind, why? =
If=20
> these are too many questions, don't feel pressured to =
answer=20
them all. Any
> answer whatsoever is =
appreciated.
> =20
OK, I'll give it a shot.
Yes, the Chloroplast should work fine =
for the=20
Ucoba circuit. Use two of the
large solar cells and a 4700uF cap =
for=20
starters and experiment from there.
I think the Chloroplast will =
solarize=20
just about anything. But, I could be
wrong. The PM1 should work =
too. But,=20
I've had real performance problems with
less efficient motors. The =
D1 will=20
work easy with rechargeable batteries, but
I recommend Wilf's =
SIMD1 for=20
your application. This will give you a nocturnal
bot, but this =
could be=20
interesting as well. The 1381 won't work at all
because it needs =
an=20
inductive load to pull the circuit into activation. A
Bicore or =
BEAMant=20
circuit doesn't provide this. I'm about to tackle this
problem =
myself=20
right now. I have a BEAMant circuit on a good aluminum
platform =
that will=20
be my Zenbot prototype. I'm using Portescaps so I'm going
to try =
the PM1=20
first. But, I plan to compare performance with a Chloroplast
just =
for=20
giggles.
On another topic. The old D1 would be the perfect =
circuit for=20
the avoidance
behavior recently discussed on the list. It's mushy =
start=20
would lend it's
self well to detecting even slight shadows. The =
charge in=20
a super cap could
be dumped into the motors and give a good zip of =
speed=20
away from danger very
similar to what Bob Shannon did with =
Vore-n-more.=20
I'm not sure about enough
speed to avoid a foot fall, but definite =
avoidance behavior or a flight no
fight response could be hooked =
up in a=20
matter of minutes this way. Bob used a
limiting resistor to get =
the bot to=20
pop very rapidly but retain a determined
direction. This sounds =
like a=20
valid first step to a working prototype.
See ya,
Jim
=
href=3D"http://w=">http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html">http://w=
ww.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html
ICQ#=20
55657870
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