Alt-BEAM Archive

Message #13056



To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
From: Evan Dudzik evandude@yahoo.com
Date: Wed, 5 Apr 2000 17:16:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: Re: Parts???


here's a list of common things I use:

TOOLS:
wire strippers
needle nosed pliers
electrical tape
EPOXY!!!!! (and lots of it)
fingernail clippers... these are the BEST for clipping
wire ends in tight spaces...
soldering iron and solder (duh)
heat shrink tubing, different sizes
PAPER CLIPS for frames

Parts:
3904 and 3906 transistors, about 10 of each
1381J voltage detectors, about 10
all the values of resistors you want,(check
schematics)
note: you can get 100 resistors from jameco
for about 80cents...
.22uf tantalum caps... about 20
3300uf electrolytic caps, about 10
pager motors!!!
solar cells!!!
photodiodes

Chips:
74hct14 (microcore)
74hct240 (bicore)
74hct245 (motor drivers)

that oughtta get you started, making a bicore,
microcore, and some solarengines, as well as a
photovore.

--- Gabriel DeVault wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> I'm fairly new to Beam and Bots in general. I love
> the wealth of
> information I've been able to find on-line. I was
> curious if anybody could
> help me decide what parts and equipment I should
> get? I've already placed an
> order with solarbotics, I bought just about 2 or
> more of everything :) What
> tools or gadgets do you experienced beamers use? I
> would also like to do a
> bulk buy of electronics (enough to do any project I
> see). Has anyone
> compiled a "master list" of components needed for
> general beam projects? I
> will be creating a web site and I will post all of
> the information I can
> gather there.
>
> Thanx alot, and happy beaming :)
>
> Gabe
>
>

=====
+------------------------+
|http://surf.to/photovore|
|Photovores online! |
|Evandude Dudzik |
+------------------------+

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13057 6 Apr 2000 00:45:11 -0000 Solar head, and erector set. beam@sgiblab.sgi.com "Chris" has anyone figured a way to attach a head to a body yet? Would it be wise to use an erector set as the body?

BTW anyone know where I could get a 2,500 uF Capacitor 35v?



13058 Thu, 06 Apr 2000 10:30:13 +1000 Re: A FRED popper has come to life beam@sgiblab.sgi.com "Ben Hitchcock" Hi,

> No, I use red-lensed too. The blinks are ... actually now that I look at it
> very regular, but it seems that when the FLED turns on the light intensity
> peaks and the drops down.

Definitely try reducing the cap value to 0.22 uF. And you are using 33k
resistors instead of 10k aren't you?

> I'll give that a go. I'm afraid that the component layout I've used doesn't
> leave much room for modifications as I've used epoxy to strengthen the
> structure.

I was afraid of that. Mine are much the same.

> But undeniably I will have to build another one, so I'll try the
> configuration you suggest.

They're addictive - I've got three roaming around under my desk lamp right
now, fighting over the best position!

> How about using a Blue FLED? Won't that give harder kicks + look immensely
> cool?

If you can find a blue FLED then by all means try it! The last time I
ordered blue LEDs was for the inside of my iMac mouse... I can't find any
blue FLEDs in the places that I've looked.

Unfortunately my local Dick Smith can't even give me green ones :-(

I tried making a 'Pop-eye' bot with my last FRED. This is a term that I
invented so don't be surprised if you haven't heard of it yet :-) . What I
did was replace one of the FLEDs with an electret microphone and a couple of
supporting components (transistor, caps, resistors) so that left to its own
devices, the FRED will trigger from the FLED, so will just pop around in a
circle. But if you clap your hands, the other side will trigger before the
FLED does, meaning that you can control where the popper goes based on when
you clap your hands. Unfortunately the best circuit requires a lot of
components (because the microphone needs a _LOT_ of amplification) and
wasn't elegant enough for me to want to put my name to. I needed to be
about 10 cm away from it to get the popeye to trigger. I'm going to
investigate using a micropower Op-amp to amplify the signal instead of
transistors, so stay tuned!

btw Wilf if you're reading this, suggestions are always welcome ;-) Maybe
use a capacitor for positive feedback (high frequency) and a resistor for
lower-frequency negative feedback?

Ben



13059 Thu, 6 Apr 2000 10:52:41 +1000 Audiotropism schematic? "'BEAM List'" ARTHUR Simon Richard,
I checked your site but couldn't find a schematic for the new audiotropism
kit. Do you have one you could put up? I'd be interested in seeing how it
works and I'm sure a lot of other people would too.
> _________________________________
> Simon Arthur,
> Office of Evaluation and Audit, ATSIC,
> Tel (02) 6121 4841
> E-mail: Simon.Arthur@atsic.gov.au
> _________________________________
>
>



13060 Wed, 5 Apr 2000 22:39:27 -0500 A new flag waver was born today, my first BEAM 'bot! beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Ben a micklin A new SFW was born today, I used the tutorial on the Solarbotics Download
page. The first TIme it didn't work, I got really angry, I desoldered the
entire thing, then re-soldered it all together, attached a 22x24 cell, it
did work, but the motor only moved a minute fraction of an inch, if it
moved at all, and it needed to be in very bright light to charge at all.
I used a 33x37 cell, (it was given to me-like most of the part used for
my first 'bot were, Personal Thank you to Dave Simmons!) It uses an FLED
engine, 2200 uf cap, crippled mabuchi motor as used in RIchard Caudie's
HPV 'bots, This one had a badly bent axle on it, for the power I use a
33x37 cell, the iitty bitty 22x24 just won't cut it. 6 inches away from a
60 watt lamp, it fires about every 4.13 seconds, give or take a few
tenths.

This was ny first BEAM robot, I'm very happy with it, and now I'm into
robotics for good, Thanks to the Same person mentioned above, I owe him
one.
My next goal: Build a Dual 1381 photovore, using the 22x24 mentioned
above, or build an FLED dual 'vore, or something BEAM.

~ben~


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13061 Wed, 05 Apr 2000 23:11:44 -0700 Re: Ambler and so on BEAM David Simmons Joe,

I only remember Vietnam as history, I'm 33. But I do know what you mean.
I'm lucky enough to have been in the middle generation that the world
decided to change.

With power supplies: Kyle is using a 12v 3 amp supply. Great for stepper
motor work but not so great when doing TTL work. I have to find a way to
get the amps down and voltage down to safer levels. Outside of that he
stays with batteries and solar cells. Any suggestions to make the power
supply safer would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave

> I'm a hundred years older, but if you encourage them to "go for it!" they
> will! Just caution every one about power supplies,
> etc, that rely upon AC 120V, or power supplies without transformers. I use
> an isolation transformer for most work, and
> a Variac for dialing up special voltages, etc. Sorry, getting off track
> again.
> I fully support the idea of providing intelligent stimulation , and support
> to the youngest among us. (someone's got to carry the load and I'll be too
> tired by then!!;-)
>
> Regards,
>
> Joe


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