Alt-BEAM Archive

Message #12528



To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
From: Richard Piotter richfile@rconnect.com
Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2000 18:30:48 -0600
Subject: [alt-beam] Re: Motors and Gears


Sounds cool! What size/type motor can be fit to the grearbox? Also, you
know the cost?


Andrew Hooper wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>
> In my never ending search for Motors and Gears It just so happend
> that the father of one of my associates is about to start production
> on small gear and motor set, the motor is rated a little high for most
> of out uses but im sure the gear box will be usefull.
>
> There are several types avalible, but the thing that got me was that
> they WILL opperate well if you reverse the motor.
>
> The size of these are 1.500" X 1.500" X 0.75"
> Torque is around 1.5" Lbs max.
> Ratio is 100:1
>
> Website should be up and running with all the details by next week
> and the gearbox is also sold without a motor :)
>
> Will keep you all informed
>
> Andrew

--


Richard Piotter The Richfiles Robotics & TI web page:
richfile@rconnect.com http://richfiles.calc.org

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12529 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 17:23:38 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: LEDs to indicate Bicore operation "'beam@sgiblab.sgi.com'" Wilf Rigter As an alternative, use a Bicolor LED from Radio Shack in series with a
current limiting resistor (~1K). The Bicolor LED must be the 2 pin version
(generally for AC indication) : the 3 pin bicolor LEDs won't work. A BiLED
is constructed by placing RED and GREEN LED chips side by side and connected
in parallel, in a single package such that when the polarity between the
pins is one way, the RED LED lights and when the polarity is reversed, the
GREEN LED lights.

The BiLED method works for both Bicores or microcores. Connect the BiLED in
series with a 1K resistor across the motor terminals. The RED and GREEN
indicate the presence and polarity of the voltage across the motor. With
bicores, the BiLED is either RED or GREEN but with a microcore the normal
sequence is RED,OFF,GREEN,OFF and when a microcore saturates the BiLED
remains OFF (no voltage across the motor).

When used with the higher frequency output of a Bicore HEAD, the BiLED is a
yellowish white color when the HEAD is not moving but the motor voltage is
rapidly reversing polarity (AC voltage and current!) and changes to a RED or
GREEN hue when the head starts turning left or right. This is true also for
a PS head, but the LED is OFF when the head is not moving, indicating the
motor is not using power, and bright GREEN or RED when moving left or right.

regards

wilf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Flaming Headphones [SMTP:headphones99@iname.com]
> Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 4:54 PM
> To: BEAM List
> Subject: LEDs to indicate Bicore operation
>
> Hi all,
> Just a quick question, where would I place LED's to indicate bicore
> operation on the almost complete walker circuit from Ian's BEAM-online? I
> know Mr. Miller's walker tutorial has info on indicator LEDs for the
> microcore, but I have no idea how to apply if to the bicore.
>
> TIA,
> Mike, AKA Flaming Headphones
> ICQ: 17940917
> E-mail: headphones99@iname.com



12530 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 17:40:08 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: Logic puzzle - cool! Try this tougher one... :-) "'beam@sgiblab.sgi.com'" Wilf Rigter The prize goes to you Justin!

I didn't get a good look at your puzzle3 circuit before but on closer
inspection it appears that we arrived at the same solution. Mind you, the
supply polarities are screwed up and the 47K and 220K resistors are not
needed but the basic design idea is there and hours before I posted my
solution. So congrats and well deserved thanks for serving up such a fun
circuit treasure hunt.

regards

wilf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Justin [SMTP:JAF60@student.canterbury.ac.nz]
> Sent: Friday, March 24, 2000 1:49 AM
> To: beam@corp.sgi.com
> Subject: Logic puzzle - cool! Try this tougher one... :-)
>
> I just made another circuit solution, much simpler than my first.
> Breadboarded it and everything works great, and doesn't seem at all
> affected by voltage - a circuit I can actually use!
> 8 components. Any bids below 8 components? :-)
>
>
> Eagle eyed observers may note that as well as inverting the truth table
> (it now shows the HC240 inverted output instead of the enable pin
> states), it differs in one respect from the one specified, but even
> eagler-eyed observers will have read the blurb on what the "gate" is
> for, and realised that the only thing the change actually changes is the
> polarity in which you wire up the completely non-polarised motor :-) <<
> File: puzzle3.gif >>



12531 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 21:30:58 EST [alt-beam] power smart head AND Ian's Complete walker circuit??? beam@sgiblab.sgi.com StickG@aol.com Just a thought here guys, If I used wilf's power smart head to give ian's
complete walker circuit phototropism (I understand its not necessary), in
other words as the controller, what would happen when the reverse switch is
tripped on Ian's walker circuit? Would the thing actually reverse with no
problems? Also, does anyone have any ideas on how to attach touch sensors to
the power smart head to influence a gait? something without introducing IR
diodes?
thanks folks, talk to ya in a bit...
stick



12532 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 19:58:28 -0800 (PST) [alt-beam] Re: Dumb newbie Q. beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Daniel Grace Hmmm, I haven't even seen a 'multi' meter without
current. I've seen meters that only measure one thing
(Volts, Ohms, Amps) but none that measure more than
one, and leave out current!

~Daniel

--- William Cox wrote:
>
> > Current: Needed! No question about it.
>
> I don't agree. I've gotten along fine without it.
> Just use a resistor and
> voltage measurement. In many cases this is superior,
> because you know the
> size of the "test" resistor.
> -William
>
>

=====
ICQ # 39402143

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12533 Sat, 25 Mar 2000 23:03:41 -0600 [alt-beam] Re: Almost Complete Walker Update beam@sgiblab.sgi.com SG At 04:57 PM 3/25/00 -0800, you wrote:
>Hi Guys,
>
>Update on the almost complete walker, Kyle's anyway.
>....
remember to tell him to put a .01uf cap across his motor leads.
also, i had to switch the "front-back" motor outputs to get my newest
walker to act right because of the master-slave configuration. so if it
doesn't walk at first try switching the outputs.


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