Alt-BEAM Archive

Message #09703



To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
From: "Ben Hitchcock" beh01@uow.edu.au
Date: Wed, 02 Feb 2000 22:31:51 +1100
Subject: [alt-beam] Simplest motor reverser


All,

I was thinking today about creating another little photovore, and realised
that I could implement a circuit I designed when I was interested in radio
control. This circuit reverses two wires - and the only component is a
switch!

I've seen this circuit crop up a number of times independantly - it's a very
simple solution to a very common problem.

To add this circuit to a photovore, I would suggest making an extension to
the toggle switch. Wrap some wire around the switch handle, and make it
into a 'feeler'. This should increase the leverage on the switch to make it
easier to turn on when you bump into something.

Also, I guess you could implement this onto a walker as well - it will just
make the motor spin in the other direction to the one it was going in,
making the walker reverse. For a walker, of course you only reverse ONE
motor, otherwise you'll continue to walk forwards!

All you need is a double throw, double pole switch, and some wire to
increase the leverage. This could be made into an artistic 'feeler' shape
or whatever takes your fancy. The switch should be as easy to turn as
possible. The harder it is to switch, the harder your poor little robot
will have to work to switch it!

I'm surprised that it hasn't cropped up on robots before now! I'm going to
add it to my next photovore to see how it performs actually on a robot. I
think I might have to modify the spring a bit to allow the photovore to push
it over... but then again it might work unmodified.

Ben



9704 Wed, 02 Feb 2000 22:37:20 +1100 [alt-beam] Re: Simplest motor reverser beam@sgiblab.sgi.com "Ben Hitchcock"
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Whoops!

Here's the picture as well!

Ben
> All,
>
> I was thinking today about creating another little photovore, and realised
> that I could implement a circuit I designed when I was interested in radio
> control. This circuit reverses two wires - and the only component is a
> switch!
>
> I've seen this circuit crop up a number of times independantly - it's a very
> simple solution to a very common problem.
>
> To add this circuit to a photovore, I would suggest making an extension to
> the toggle switch. Wrap some wire around the switch handle, and make it
> into a 'feeler'. This should increase the leverage on the switch to make it
> easier to turn on when you bump into something.
>
> Also, I guess you could implement this onto a walker as well - it will just
> make the motor spin in the other direction to the one it was going in,
> making the walker reverse. For a walker, of course you only reverse ONE
> motor, otherwise you'll continue to walk forwards!
>
> All you need is a double throw, double pole switch, and some wire to
> increase the leverage. This could be made into an artistic 'feeler' shape
> or whatever takes your fancy. The switch should be as easy to turn as
> possible. The harder it is to switch, the harder your poor little robot
> will have to work to switch it!
>
> I'm surprised that it hasn't cropped up on robots before now! I'm going to
> add it to my next photovore to see how it performs actually on a robot. I
> think I might have to modify the spring a bit to allow the photovore to push
> it over... but then again it might work unmodified.
>
> Ben
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Attachment: reverser.gif

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9705 Wed, 2 Feb 2000 14:01:03 +0100 [alt-beam] PM1 SE question "Beam Mailing List" "Thomas Pilgaard" Hiyall,

I am having a go at the BEAM-ant along with a PM1 SE.

In regard to my previous posting I've replaced the 2N7000 with a BS107.
However, I am a bit pussled on how to turn it to get the proper result.

First off, what are the letters D, G and S abbreviations of? (I have a hunch
that they may be Danish abbreviations). And further, would it be correct to
refer to one of these as the emitter pin of the component?

FYI I am using a 1381J and 2x4700uF caps in parallel in lack of better.

I've hooked the SE up to a FLED on my breadboard and when turning the BS107
one way the FLED blinks madly and unevenly. When turned the other way, it
blinks steadily and sort of fades out along with drop in current from the
SE. Now, I'd say on basis of this that the last result was the one to be
desired ie. that's the right way to turn it, but when I hook it up to my
Beam ant, the first position of the BS107 results in steady pulses of the
motor that gets the largest amount of light, while the second position
appears to drop the entire charge, not resulting in the charactaristic
pulses.

I am confident that my ant cirquit is bug-free since I've run it oafa
battery with good results.

Thankyou in advance,

Thomas

---
"You haven't had enough coffee until you can thread a moving sewing
machine."

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