Alt-BEAM Archive

Message #09264



To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
From: Bumper314@aol.com
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:40:56 EST
Subject: [alt-beam] cutting LEDs...Thanks



Thank you all for the suggestions...I'll give them a try

Steve



9265 Mon, 17 Jan 2000 09:50:16 +1100 (EST) [alt-beam] Re: Are these caps any good? beam@sgiblab.sgi.com (mailing list) Hitch Bencock Hi,


----- Forwarded message from Thomas Pilgaard -----

> I've found some large(r) caps in a danish webstore, and I'd like you to
> comment on some questions I've got on their usability.

> There's a 1F cap with the following specs:
> 1) Distcharce at 5,5V at 1mA is 3000 secs
> 2) Leakage is 315uA (I'm not sure how to translate so bare with me).

A little bit high for a SE, but still quite useable.

> 3) The specs says "Internal resistance (1khz) : 30" (don't know what to
> make
> of it)

This is the most critical part of the spec for BEAM. This is the
resistance in ohms of an imaginary resistor that is 'inside' the cap,
limiting the maximum current that can be drawn. IN a photopopper, you
need a good 'push' at hte start of the motor run. The lower the internal
resistance, the better your robot. 30 Ohms is way too high for a popper.
Anything less than about 5 Ohms will work well.

> 4) Physical dimensions are Height : 8mm; Diameter : 21,5mm

This sounds suspiciously like the Panasonic 'memory retention' cap. It
looks like a little button. I bought one when I was starting out in BEAM,
and it didn't turn a pager motor at all.

Note that you can still use it for things like flashing LEDs, making LCD
displays turn on, that sort of thing. But don't expect to make a motor
turn.

> The same points 1 throug 4 for a .047F cap are:
> 1) 190 secs
> 2) 69uA
> 3) 120
> 4) Height 7,5; 13,5

Same goes for here as well. 120 Ohms is waaayyy too high for a motor
driven bot. But it would be OK for a LED flasher.

Hope this helps,
Ben

--
Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.



9266 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:53:34 EST [alt-beam] Re: D1 beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Bumper314@aol.com In a message dated 1/16/00 1:55:23 PM Mountain Standard Time,
Wilf.Rigter@powertech.bc.ca writes:


Phew Wilf...I really appreciate all this work. I am working on this right
now. I was wondering how it would work with one of those skinny gold caps
that are used on solar rollers. I know they dont have as high of an internal
resistance right, so will it last as long? What about a blue LED with this
circuit?

Steve
> This simple circuit combines two dynamite circuits. An even simpler SIMD1
> and a LED charge pump/flasher.
> Despite the LEDPUMP's apparent simplicity, it is a major improvements over
> original the D1 and PUMMER circuits.
> The SIMD1 is a very simple D1 type SE which charges during the day and
turns
> on a flashing LED at night. In addition to the solar cell and capacitor (or
> NiCd), it uses just 1 diode for isolation to prevent discharging a fully
> charged cap through the solar cell in the dark and another diode to hold
> off a flasher/threshold detector which turns on at night. It just doesn't
> get much simpler!
>
> The second part of the design shown is the simplest of all LEDPUMP versions
> and is used to drive LEDs from a single 1.5V battery (SBolt notice) ie.
for
> the AQUAGUARD circuit, but works perfectly well from a solar charger and
> supercap. In the attached circuit, I used a coin super cap charged to 2V
to
> flash a LED once a second for 8hrs and it's still going. To optimize
> performance, you must use a premium high brightness high efficiency LED.
The
> simplicity of design was emphasized to make it easy to freeform the circuit
> into jewelry etc.
>
> You can also use this design at much higher frequency (100kHz) to turn the
> LED on continuously, I used 1M/100pf for the oscillator and 0.33 for the
> chargepump cap. If you use a higher voltage solar cell and 5V super cap,
the
> single LED can be replaced with two LEDs in series. I have several other
> versions which use one or two more components and are more efficient than
> the basic LEDPUMP design shown. This includes replacing the diode in series
> with the LED with a synchronous rectifier (2N3904 and 100K resistor) or
> simply adding a 10K resistor in parallel with the diode to reduce the diode
> forward voltage drop and precharge the cap to 0V before the active pulse to
> increase brightness and efficiency.
>
> The basic LEDPUMP (LED, CAP, DIODE) design can be used with low voltage
> microcontrollers, and other micropower applications etc to increase LED
> driving voltage. Although it may not be obvious, since the LEDPUMP seems
> like such a simple circuit, it is potentially my most important
contribution
> to date. Remember were you saw it first.
>



9267 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 15:04:53 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: Lotus 1, by Sparky. New Beam Page beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Bruce Robinson jester96beam@iname.com wrote:
>
> Whenever I try to go to that page, my whole computer freezes!
> It always has. It's the only page that my computer doesn't like.
> Anyone have any idea why this may happen? Is there anything
> 'different' about that page?

Which page? If you're referring to Sparky's page ...

http://www3.telus.net/rfws/beam/sparky/index.html

it's written in standard HTML. Doesn't contain any code specific to a
particular browser; doesn't contain any "advanced features".

Which browser are you using (and which version number)?

You might also try going to the following page and see what happens.
It's written in the same style of HTML:

http://www3.telus.net/rfws/bwi

I definitely want to hear about problems with my site(s) because I want
them to be available to as many browsers as possible.

If anyone else has a problem, let me know.

Regards,
Bruce



9268 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:11:44 EST [alt-beam] Re: D1 beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Bumper314@aol.com In a message dated 1/16/00 1:01:41 PM Mountain Standard Time,
Wilf.Rigter@powertech.bc.ca writes:

> "ALWAYS TERMINATE UNUSED CMOS INPUTS!"

I would imagine that mean ground...but should I use a resistor?

Steve



9269 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:04:40 EST [alt-beam] Re: D1 beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Bumper314@aol.com even more questions...can you use 1n4148 diodes? is that cap on the output o=
f=20
the inverter 47=B5f or .47=B5f? I made this thing and the LED just stays on=20=
all=20
the time once there is enough voltage in the cap to turn it on...I am really=
=20
getting pissed here. You have made it as simple as possible, and im trying t=
o=20
get back into BEAM with all this simpe crap but i cant do jack. DAMN!!!!

Steve



9270 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 18:35:02 -0600 [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea. and include Solarbotics.BEAM/LEGO beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Richard Piotter I also know a lot of people love their LEDs, but not one of my robots
has a single LED on it. LEDs are quite expensive, considering the whole
picture. The resistor is another added, though not major expense. I
realize they are a wonderful diagnostic tool and look cool, but they
drain power as well. I think there might be a few people that'd
appreciate them without LEDs. Maybe the person selling them could offer
LEDs separately.

I still am a little disapointed that we're just getting another versiuon
of the hextile. Dave was supposedly planning on manufacturing hextiles.
I realy don't have nearly as much use for these Triangular Single Nv/Nu
Hextiles. I may end up just making a large number for myself, since I
definitely DO NOT have the colateral for a large quantity of them if I
make them myself.

What I definitely was hoping for was a tiny board with 6 pins soldered
to it to fit a DIP socket or solder straight to a PCB. Looks like the
majority didn't like that, and the majority won. I suppose I might have
to make my own Single Nv/Nu modules to my own liking.
--


Richard Piotter The Richfiles Robotics & TI web page:
richfile@rconnect.com http://richfiles.calc.org

-- Make Money by Simply Surfing the Net or responding to E-Mail!!!
-- Click below!!!

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9271 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 17:59:50 -0700 [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea. and include Solarbotics.RE: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Dave Hrynkiw At 05:35 PM 1/16/00 , Richard Piotter wrote:
>I think there might be a few people that'd
>appreciate them without LEDs. Maybe the person selling them could offer
>LEDs separately.

That is definitely an option, as you're correct - the LED's would add
reasonable expense to the parts bag. But there simply isn't an easier, more
effective way to watch the propagation happen than LED's right on the board.


>What I definitely was hoping for was a tiny board with 6 pins soldered
>to it to fit a DIP socket or solder straight to a PCB. Looks like the
>majority didn't like that, and the majority won. I suppose I might have
>to make my own Single Nv/Nu modules to my own liking.

They do sound like a sexy idea, but I don't like the prospect of getting
manufacturing quotes to get these manufactured with the single-gate SMT
chips soldered on. And let's face it - there aren't many hobbiests who have
the skill or the patience to construct enough of these boards in SMT to
make it very popular.

One step at a time....

-Dave

---------------------------------------------------------------
"Um, no - that's H,R,Y,N,K,I,W. No, not K,I,U,U, K,I,_W_. Yes,
that's right. Yes, I know it looks like "HOCKYRINK." Yup, only
2 vowels. Pronounciation? _SMITH_".
http://www.solarbotics.com



9272 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:59:07 EST [alt-beam] Re: D1 beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Meabadboy@aol.com In a message dated 1/16/2000 10:07:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bshannon@tiac.net writes:

<< Use the smart cap circuit from Vore-n-more. That will run anything,
including
whole photopoppers.
>>


What is a smart cap?

could you send a copy of this circuit you speek of??

very intersted in this

may work in an application i am exploring

Steve



9273 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 19:01:05 -0600 [alt-beam] Re: cutting LEDs beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Richard Piotter There is only a tiny point of light that actualy lights up. It also
won't appear as bright cause the round end acts like a lens. You can
either use a knife or tool to score a groove around the area you want
removed and use a strong wire clipper to snap the end off, or use a
cutting tool or grinding tool to remove the end, and then either polish
the end, or you can use a dab of epoxy to fill the scratches and smooth
the surface.

Bumper314@aol.com wrote:
>
> How do you cut an LED to make the lens completely flat and still shinny? I
> keep trying but they just crack or are scratched so bad the light is barely
> visible. Anyone know
>
> Steve

--


Richard Piotter The Richfiles Robotics & TI web page:
richfile@rconnect.com http://richfiles.calc.org

-- Make Money by Simply Surfing the Net or responding to E-Mail!!!
-- Click below!!!

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9274 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:45:57 EST [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea. and include Solarbotics.RE: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Meabadboy@aol.com In a message dated 1/16/2000 7:36:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
richfile@rconnect.com writes:

<< What I definitely was hoping for was a tiny board with 6 pins soldered
to it to fit a DIP socket or solder straight to a PCB. Looks like the
majority didn't like that, and the majority won. I suppose I might have
to make my own Single Nv/Nu modules to my own liking. >>


I also like the single NU/NV on a DIP package ~vs~ the hexshape or triangle
shape ~ makes more sense to do it that way in my opinion ~ prototyping ~
adding/changing componet parts ~ etc. ~ all from a bread board ~ then....
when finished tweeking the design the selected parts can be sodered to the
board and put onto the working BOT frame.
With a package sim. to that of the basic stamp design it then can either be
free formed to (ie cutting off or sodering to the pins for stability) or
placed into a socket on a baord that holds additional componets/circuits

That design I would buy

Steve



9275 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:36:24 -0600 [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea. and include Solarbotics.RE:BEAM/LEGO beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Richard Piotter It'd be nice to see the single Nv hextile actualy consist of the pattern
for the DIP

You simply cut the PCB around it and solder a pair of male header pins
into through holes made into the board. Perfect solution to both the
people looknig for a DIP and those wanting the little triangle hextile!!!


Meabadboy@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/16/2000 7:36:33 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> richfile@rconnect.com writes:
>
> << What I definitely was hoping for was a tiny board with 6 pins soldered
> to it to fit a DIP socket or solder straight to a PCB. Looks like the
> majority didn't like that, and the majority won. I suppose I might have
> to make my own Single Nv/Nu modules to my own liking. >>
>
> I also like the single NU/NV on a DIP package ~vs~ the hexshape or triangle
> shape ~ makes more sense to do it that way in my opinion ~ prototyping ~
> adding/changing componet parts ~ etc. ~ all from a bread board ~ then....
> when finished tweeking the design the selected parts can be sodered to the
> board and put onto the working BOT frame.
> With a package sim. to that of the basic stamp design it then can either be
> free formed to (ie cutting off or sodering to the pins for stability) or
> placed into a socket on a baord that holds additional componets/circuits
>
> That design I would buy
>
> Steve

--


Richard Piotter The Richfiles Robotics & TI web page:
richfile@rconnect.com http://richfiles.calc.org

-- Make Money by Simply Surfing the Net or responding to E-Mail!!!
-- Click below!!!

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9276 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:37:42 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea. and include Solarbotics.BEAM/LEGO beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Bruce Robinson Richard Piotter wrote:
>
> ... LEDs are quite expensive, considering the whole picture.

I don't know what the price is of those SMT LED's -- might be quite a
bit less.

> I realize they are a wonderful diagnostic tool and look cool,
> but they drain power as well.

For us non-electronic types, I would say "indispensible diagnostic tool.
My one and only sample produces lots of light at 2 mA. Assuming the
price isn't too significant, you can always cut a lead once you've
debugged your system.

> I still am a little disapointed that we're just getting
> another versiuon of the hextile.

Actually, there are now about 5 variations on the theme out there. Two
of them might see the light of day, and possibly a third.

> What I definitely was hoping for was a tiny board with 6 pins
> soldered to it to fit a DIP socket or solder straight to a PCB.

I think that's a possibility. As this thread continues, I notice the
people who actually want to make something are changing their ideas in
response to comments like yours. The DIP package has a lot going for it
-- good on breadboards, good on pre-drilled proto-boards, good in
sockets. I wouldn't count on soldering it directly to a PCB unless
you've got a real steady hand. Those pins'll conduct enough heat to melt
the solder on the tiny board.

> Looks like the majority didn't like that, and the majority won.

Pure economics, I'm afraid.

Regards,
Bruce



9277 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 20:37:49 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: D1 beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Bruce Robinson Bumper314@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/16/00 1:01:41 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> Wilf.Rigter@powertech.bc.ca writes:
>
> > "ALWAYS TERMINATE UNUSED CMOS INPUTS!"
>
> I would imagine that mean ground...but should I use a resistor?

Here you go, straight from Chapter 2 of the Motorola CMOS handbook:

"When CMOS inputs are left open-circuited, the inputs may be biased at
or near the typical CMOS switchpoint ... At this switchpoint, both the
P-channel and N-channel transistors are conducting, causing excess
current drain. Due to the high gain of the buffered devices, the device
can go into oscillation from any noise in the system, resulting in even
higher current drain."

"For these reasons, all unused HC/HCT inputs should be connected either
to Vcc or GND."

In English, connect them to either ground or Vcc, it doesn't matter. No
need for resistors -- it's only the INPUTS you are dealing with here.
Leave the unused outputs open.

Bruce



9278 Mon, 17 Jan 2000 00:27:22 EST [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea.......................... beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Meabadboy@aol.com In a message dated 1/16/2000 9:38:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
richfile@rconnect.com writes:

<< It'd be nice to see the single Nv hextile actualy consist of the pattern
for the DIP

You simply cut the PCB around it and solder a pair of male header pins
into through holes made into the board. Perfect solution to both the
people looknig for a DIP and those wanting the little triangle hextile!!! >>

Sounds like a viable solution to both types of intrests ~ but "SMALL" is
definatly the key here if I understand what the whole theme of this is.

When will you have any available for sale????

LoL

I am hooked on this idea.

I do like the idea of the single unit approach ~ I have played a bit with
this idea myself...

Off topic here......... and just a thought I had hit me while reading all the
information on your individule websites and also after I saw the TV show last
night on the learning channel on this whole idea/approach to robotic control
~ verry novel approach this is indeed ~ only one thought...............

In his interview, he discussed the idea that with a microprocessor (or Robot
brain) ~ if a portion of the circuit (he diminstrated this with dropping a
set of keys on the circuit bord) was damaged the whole works was "ka-put" ~ I
agree with this example having myself played with microprocessors ~ one
glitch and its back to the @#$%# workbench ~ and his major point to this BEAM
approach ~ however ~ in any living creature we are trying to mimic/copy ~
insect, reptile, etc...... that I have read about, there is a central point
where all the information comes togeather and is "Processed" ~ or for a lack
of better words a BRAIN ~ or in most robotics ~ a microprocessor ~

How if all we are dealing with here is the "nerves" of the creature are we to
assemble a creature that can make judgement upon conditions other then just
"Reflex"?

I mean "Reflex" in terms of how the BEAM circuit reacts to the change of the
RC time constant via sensors or the output of the previous NV/NU.

As for the BRAIN or central processor of the creature ~ Has anyone looked at
the possibility of useing AND/NAND gates as a make up for decision logic
along with the RC timeing network of the inverter?

Or replacing the inverter with a AND/NAND gate of the same type of
construction.

Maybe even X-OR/X-NOR circuits along this theme of RC timing?

I havent had the time to play with a AND, NAND, XOR gate yet to see if it
will exibit the same type of timing/reaction and operation/trigger on the
rise of the RC charge as does the inverter commonly used in the NU/NV

Just courious.

I also wonder if this will work along with a GAL or PLA for more complex
logic.

Steve



9279 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:46:21 PST [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea. and include Solarbotics.BEAM/LEGO beam@sgiblab.sgi.com "Timothy Flytcher" >I suppose I might have
>to make my own Single Nv/Nu modules to my own liking.
>Richard

This is a major point life for me... if I seek recognition for my work and
get none am I less likely to enjoy my work??? If I am than I am doing it not
for me but for others... Work that I do for others brings me only brief
joy... work I do for myself bring great joy... even if I then give it to
others...
conclusion... Just do it... If it works for you, share... just don't be
discouraged if public opinion falls the other way... We ,as humans, are just
funny that way...
Oh and me... I love the idea of simple versatile components that I can use
in may ways...
Timothy...
______________________________________________________



9280 Sun, 16 Jan 2000 22:50:03 PST [alt-beam] Re: D1 beam@sgiblab.sgi.com "Timothy Flytcher" Ooooh Bruce, .....Gold ... pure gold... Thank you very much...
Timothy....

>In English, connect them to either ground or Vcc, it doesn't matter. No
>need for resistors -- it's only the INPUTS you are dealing with here.
>Leave the unused outputs open.
>
>Bruce

______________________________________________________



9281 Mon, 17 Jan 2000 01:07:19 -0600 [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea.......................... beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Richard Piotter
--------------83A9F9FEAB2D14D158E69D98
content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

I'll answer two things here. I came up with a possible design for a
combination Triangular Single Nv/Nu Configurable Hextile that can be
trimmed and converted to a DIP type package. This DIP package is 8 pins
with an SMT LED, or if you don't want a LED, you can trim it to a mere 6
pins!!! I like the idea of having LEDs, but it's also nice to know they
can be removed (ie. solar powerd bots and energy conservation).

The file was drawn up my myself and is included as an attached GIF file.
If you view it on a true scale screen, it SHOULD display it near 1x size
I think. Easiest way is to take a ruler against your screen and measure
against an on screen ruler. Worked for me!



Next, someone mentioned using logic gates and BEAN technology together...

If you look at my web page and look under Quadrapod, you'll find a link
to a schematic. It uses an Nv loop to generate a drive sequence, but
gates to translate 5 input signals (Stop, Forward, Reverse, Left, and
Right) into changing pathways for the Nv processes, resulting in 9 types
of gaits (Stoped, Forward, Reverse, Rotate Left, Rotate Right, Walk
Forward & Left, Walk Forward & Right, Walk Reverse & Left, and Walk
Reverse & Right).

I intend to add more circuitry to accept manual commands or switch to
autonomous command where it accepts commands from internal sensors. If I
get lucky, I might get my hands on some cash and be able to actualy
build it. Also, rather than use H-Bridge drivers, I'm using the output
signals to drive a PWM generator to create 4 modes (Hold, Up Middle, and
Down). This will give the robot the ability to keep an organized gait
and even be able to level itself when stopped. Important since I have a
tiny camera to go on it!

And I sure wish I could play with some GAL or PLA. My college has a PLC
class (sorta like GALs and PLAs with driver circuitry for driving thing
like industrial motors and such, or it looks like that anyway).




Meabadboy@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/16/2000 9:38:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> richfile@rconnect.com writes:
>
> << It'd be nice to see the single Nv hextile actualy consist of the pattern
> for the DIP
>
> You simply cut the PCB around it and solder a pair of male header pins
> into through holes made into the board. Perfect solution to both the
> people looknig for a DIP and those wanting the little triangle hextile!!! >>
>
> Sounds like a viable solution to both types of intrests ~ but "SMALL" is
> definatly the key here if I understand what the whole theme of this is.
>
> When will you have any available for sale????
>
> LoL
>
> I am hooked on this idea.
>
> I do like the idea of the single unit approach ~ I have played a bit with
> this idea myself...
>
> Off topic here......... and just a thought I had hit me while reading all the
> information on your individule websites and also after I saw the TV show last
> night on the learning channel on this whole idea/approach to robotic control
> ~ verry novel approach this is indeed ~ only one thought...............
>
> In his interview, he discussed the idea that with a microprocessor (or Robot
> brain) ~ if a portion of the circuit (he diminstrated this with dropping a
> set of keys on the circuit bord) was damaged the whole works was "ka-put" ~ I
> agree with this example having myself played with microprocessors ~ one
> glitch and its back to the @#$%# workbench ~ and his major point to this BEAM
> approach ~ however ~ in any living creature we are trying to mimic/copy ~
> insect, reptile, etc...... that I have read about, there is a central point
> where all the information comes togeather and is "Processed" ~ or for a lack
> of better words a BRAIN ~ or in most robotics ~ a microprocessor ~
>
> How if all we are dealing with here is the "nerves" of the creature are we to
> assemble a creature that can make judgement upon conditions other then just
> "Reflex"?
>
> I mean "Reflex" in terms of how the BEAM circuit reacts to the change of the
> RC time constant via sensors or the output of the previous NV/NU.
>
> As for the BRAIN or central processor of the creature ~ Has anyone looked at
> the possibility of useing AND/NAND gates as a make up for decision logic
> along with the RC timeing network of the inverter?
>
> Or replacing the inverter with a AND/NAND gate of the same type of
> construction.
>
> Maybe even X-OR/X-NOR circuits along this theme of RC timing?
>
> I havent had the time to play with a AND, NAND, XOR gate yet to see if it
> will exibit the same type of timing/reaction and operation/trigger on the
> rise of the RC charge as does the inverter commonly used in the NU/NV
>
> Just courious.
>
> I also wonder if this will work along with a GAL or PLA for more complex
> logic.
>
> Steve

--


Richard Piotter The Richfiles Robotics & TI web page:
richfile@rconnect.com http://richfiles.calc.org

-- Make Money by Simply Surfing the Net or responding to E-Mail!!!
-- Click below!!!

http://www.alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=ATL147
http://www.spedia.net/cgi-bin/dir/tz.cgi?run=show_svc&fl=8&vid=329630

--------------83A9F9FEAB2D14D158E69D98
x-mac-type="47494666";
x-mac-creator="474B4F4E";

Attachment: OneNv.gif

--------------83A9F9FEAB2D14D158E69D98--



9282 Mon, 17 Jan 2000 08:36:58 +0100 cutting LEDs beam@corp.sgi.com Bumper314@aol.com [mailto:Bumper314@aol.com]
How do you cut an LED to make the lens completely flat and still shinny? I
keep trying but they just crack or are scratched so bad the light is barely
visible. Anyone know

Steve



9283 Mon, 17 Jan 2000 00:05:18 -0700 [alt-beam] Re: Interseting, additional idea.......................... beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Nathaniel Martin I like the combination triangle and DIP approach... I'd buy some of these
(any idea of a price?)


BTW, I've got my servo motors in the mail, so I'm ready to start building
my first walker!

-Nathaniel


>I'll answer two things here. I came up with a possible design for a
>combination Triangular Single Nv/Nu Configurable Hextile that can be
>trimmed and converted to a DIP type package. This DIP package is 8 pins
>with an SMT LED, or if you don't want a LED, you can trim it to a mere 6
>pins!!! I like the idea of having LEDs, but it's also nice to know they
>can be removed (ie. solar powerd bots and energy conservation).
>
>The file was drawn up my myself and is included as an attached GIF file.
>If you view it on a true scale screen, it SHOULD display it near 1x size
>I think. Easiest way is to take a ruler against your screen and measure
>against an on screen ruler. Worked for me!
>
>

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