Alt-BEAM Archive
Message #08402
To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
From: "Dennison Bertram" dibst11+@pitt.edu
Date: Sat, 18 Dec 1999 16:42:42 -0500
Subject: [alt-beam] Re: chloroplast--basking response
Actually I posted about the Basking response a long time ago with the
*gasp!* FLED solarengine. A standard Fled SE will lock up under bright light
but will automatically trigger if a shawow passes over. I used this to make
'fighting' bots. Pretty cool...
dennison
Woe... Wilf, hold up a minuet...
>Interesting behaviours can result, ie the SE may charge
>but not fire until a shadow passes over the LDR (fight or flight response?)
Is this a repeatable response??? Could the be used as a basking response???
A bot that finds the sun then sits and basks like a lizard on a rock???
Timothy...
>Your wish is my command!
>
>Here is a Light Compensated SE (LCSE or should that be lcse?) It should be
>used with a solar cell with 7 to 8V max open circuit. The caps should have
>a
>similar voltage rating. The value of the pot is about equal to the
>brightest
>light resistance of the Light Dependent Resistor (LDR). The LDR points in
>the same general direction as the solar cell for tracking light variations.
>It is usually necessary to desensitize the LDR by partially masking it with
>shrinktube or nail polish etc. Experimentation is required to get the right
>setting of the pot. Interesting behaviours can result, ie the SE may charge
>but not fire until a shadow passes over the LDR (fight or flight response?)
>
>
>
> <>
> > another thing to add on that is a photoresistor. So in more light it
>will
> > run
> > stronger or be more conservative in darker light. Sounds good to me.
> >
> > Steve
><< lcse.gif >>
______________________________________________________
8403 Sat, 18 Dec 1999 16:55:08 EST [alt-beam] Re: PCB iron on transfers beam@sgiblab.sgi.com JVernonM@aol.com In a message dated 12/18/99 4:35:39 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dibst11+@pitt.edu writes:
> The people who I talked to
> recomend that you have a high quality Laser printer, loaded with special
> super heavy toner.
This came up before and I didn't comment because the advice pertains to
silk-screening and most BEAMs won't have the product needed, but it is cheap
and available at graphic suppliers. I'm referring to a polyester sheet sold
under the brand name of Kemodesk. It is basically a plastic sheet cut to the
dimensions of regular laser printer paper. I use it everyday, and it would
make excellent PCB master art material. Yes, it comes out of the laser
printer only about half opaque, but here's the secret (and this is considered
a silk-screen industry secret that no one will tell you about), iron the
toner side of the artwork with a piece of scrap paper over it. The iron
remelts the toner making it completely opaque. I do this by running the
sheets through a tunnel dryer, but an iron should work just as well if you
are careful. About 20 seconds at 350 degreesF will do it as well. To much and
you will melt the Kemodesk. This would probably work on any medium using
toner, but the laser printer is a requirement.
See ya,
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html
ICQ# 55657870
8404 Sat, 18 Dec 1999 23:03:15 +0100 [alt-beam] Re: PCB iron on transfers beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Thomas Pilgaard Nielsen Would you be so kind as to explain what a 'rub-on' is? Can I produce them=
myself
for instance?
Thankyou and cheers
Thomas
Dennison Bertram wrote:
> Well, I didn't say the PCB houses didn't haev their drawbacks. I'm not =
rich,
> so I'm carefull with my money. When I do a single board or something, s=
ure I
> do it with a pen or rub ons. PErsonally, aside from a PCB house I Think=
Rub
> On's are the best method. As they always turn out perfectly (if you do =
it
> right). And I also said for a PCB house you need to take alot of time
> deciding what design is right for your purposes. When I get down to it,=
I
> feel that the money is well spent.
>
> dennison
>
> At 11:18 PM 12/17/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >jester96@iname.com wrote:
> > >
> > > ... The only way I can make PCBs now is with a pen, and that it's a
> > pain in the arse, so I am looking for something better. How much do c=
heap
> > UV boxes cost?
> >
> >Chris, you might want to consider photo-etching. A number of firms now
> >make PCB's pre-coated with a photo-resist.
> >
> >Design your layout, print it onto transparency overlays, place it on a
> >piece of pre-coated PCB material, weight it with a transparent plate,
> >and expose it to UV according to instructions. Then develop the plate
> >and etch.
> (snip)
>
> It may be a slight inconvenience, but use the sun. Won't get =
any
> better source of parallel light. Besides what you may have heard it is
> easy to get GREAT quality at home with the kits. If you follow the adv=
ise
> of those who know how to do it. If you use quality copper boards and
> quality silvering components, you will get very reliable boards at a ve=
ry
> reduced price. Not everyone wants to make 60 boards at once, then you =
are
> going to pay out the nose for the boards. Even so, if it is a small
> board....use a bigger copper board and cut-n-paste to fill the board. =
Like
> what was mentioned before in an earlier message, follow the instruction=
s
> and you will succeed. Board houses can do it better, but their primary
> function it to produce lots of them and fast. Hope this helps.
>
> Robert
--
---
"Stj=E5lne tusser skriver bedst."
Yvonne Miller
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