Alt-BEAM Archive

Message #07613



To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
From: Senior kyled@cruzers.com
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 15:44:54 -0700
Subject: [alt-beam] Re: Chloroplast


LOL! Really? From what I understand it is only a higher voltage SE, is
there something else?

Thanks,
Kyle

Richard Caudle wrote:
>
> > Why re-invent the wheel?
> >
> > Kyle
> >
>
> Because, compared to the Chloroplast SE, the 1381 SE is a square wheel.
>
> Richard
>



7614 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 07:08:41 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: PSH weirdness "'beam@sgiblab.sgi.com'" Wilf Rigter Hi Jason,

Just enough time for one reply:

Sounds like finger trouble: If R2 is set for 0 ohms, it is out of the
circuit and all you have is the HLO with some buffers on the output.
This should work just like the HLO circuit that you say worked "flawlessly",
outputs inverted but otherwise the same waveform. What do you use for
monitoring the output across the motor? A couple of cathode to and parallel
LEDs with a single series 470 ohm resistor will give you some visual
feedback.

The next project should be a simple 2 channel or 4 channel logic analyzer.
Each channel is two horizontal rows of 16 RED and 16 GREEN LEDs lit in
proportional brightness between logic levels. A connection to the PC printer
port to show traces on the screen would be nice too. What ever happened to
that "o"scope which I never had a chance to look at?



Wilf Rigter mailto:wilf.rigter@powertech.bc.ca
tel: (604)590-7493
fax: (604)590-3411

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason - [SMTP:evenflow88@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 9:05 PM
> To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
> Subject: PSH weirdness
>
> Hie all...i hope u guys could help me fix this problem in my version of a
> PSH...it uses LDR and the circuit and 0.1uF cap from wilf tutorial and a
> 1M
> pot for R1...it worked flawlessly ....but after i put in the R2 which is a
>
> 500K pot...the head can hardly move....i stacked two AC240 to provide
> enough
> juice for the gearmotor....and i wired the pin 1,2,4,6,8 temporarily to
> ground....so can anyone tell me why is it like that? and how do i make it
> track my hand....
>
> ______________________________________________________
>


7615 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 15:47:58 -0700 [alt-beam] Re: Chloroplast beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Senior I just had a thought... 'Piggy back' (It's not really on the back in
this config :) a photopopper circuit with 1381's wtih higher trigger
points onto the chloroplast. Is it more effecient than the 1381 though?

-Kyle



7616 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 18:59:22 EST [alt-beam] Re: Chloroplast beam@sgiblab.sgi.com JVernonM@aol.com In a message dated 11/12/99 6:49:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kyled@cruzers.com writes:

> LOL! Really? From what I understand it is only a higher voltage SE, is
> there something else?
Hi Kyle,
You should really look into the thing. There is a lot there to consider. Yep,
it is new. I'm sure the FLED SE and then the 1381 SE got a few chuckles too,
when first introduced. Ahhh...but who's laughing now?

See ya,
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html



7617 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 19:02:48 EST [alt-beam] solar smart head beam@sgiblab.sgi.com JVernonM@aol.com Hey all you guys building the smart head, check out my site and click "other
2". You will see your goal staring back at you. Enjoy!

See ya,
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html



7618 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:49:19 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: solar smart head beam@sgiblab.sgi.com Bruce Robinson JVernonM@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hey all you guys building the smart head ...
> You will see your goal staring back at you.

Sure, give everyone an inferiority complex .

I like the eyes, Jim. Mounted at an angle. Shielded (shrink wrap,
perhaps). Somewhat better aesthetics than drilling holes in a block of
plastic.

Bruce.



7619 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 20:11:04 EST [alt-beam] Re: solar smart head beam@sgiblab.sgi.com JVernonM@aol.com In a message dated 11/12/99 7:52:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Bruce_Robinson@bc.sympatico.ca writes:

> Shielded (shrink wrap,
> perhaps)
Hi Bruce,
Actually, it is shrink wrap (or shrink tubing). However, I put slivers of
plastic tubing (cut from a ball point pen casing) on the CDS cells first and
then applied the shrink tubing over that. I found that shrink tubing alone
doesn't hold it's shape well enough. What I like about this guy is that there
is no glue. The whole thing is constructed from soldered jumbo paper clip
framing. Very strong. That's a BG Micro gear motor in there if you are
wondering. Very smooth operation.

See ya,
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html



7620 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 20:14:27 EST [alt-beam] Re: solar smart head beam@sgiblab.sgi.com JVernonM@aol.com In a message dated 11/12/99 7:52:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Bruce_Robinson@bc.sympatico.ca writes:

> Somewhat better aesthetics than drilling holes in a block of
> plastic.
>
Actually, I thought that was a good idea. The problem with eyes on stalks is
that they are fragile and easily bumped out of position. Your idea would
allow for a very capable and strong configuration.

See ya,
Jim
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html



7621 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 18:08:28 -0800 [alt-beam] Re: solar smart head "'beam@sgiblab.sgi.com'" Wilf Rigter Thanks Jim,

it makes me feel all fuzzy and warm inside to know that I was able to
contribute my 2 bits to the amorphous beam gene pool, eventually giving
rise to your wonderfully detailed creation.

I assume you used your favorite SE to power it. Any other hints?

best

Wilf Rigter mailto:wilf.rigter@powertech.bc.ca
tel: (604)590-7493
fax: (604)590-3411

> -----Original Message-----
> From: JVernonM@aol.com [SMTP:JVernonM@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, November 12, 1999 4:03 PM
> To: beam@sgiblab.sgi.com
> Subject: solar smart head
>
> Hey all you guys building the smart head, check out my site and click
> "other
> 2". You will see your goal staring back at you. Enjoy!
>
> See ya,
> Jim
> http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Exhibit/8281/beamart.html



7622 Fri, 12 Nov 1999 19:12:43 -0700 Chloroplast beam@sgiblab.sgi.com = Robotbreeder =
Hi, I'm new to this list and am grateful to be introduced to this cool ho=
bby by the very talented Jason Feser : http://members.xoom.com/jfeser/

=


I feel I must share with you all a discovery: Chloroplast

=


Ok, this engine seriously rocks and is a significant improvement in power=
and effiency to the 1381. For those of you who don't know, the circuit wi=
ll charge to 3V (or 5V depending on which part you get) and then continue t=
o charge until a threshold - determined by a variable resistor - dumping vo=
ltage to whatever and stopping again at 3V (or 5V).

=


Why this rules:

=


A constant voltage can be maintained, so other circuitry can be piggy-bac=
ked to the engine.

=


The power pulses are strong, like 4V to 3V instead of 2.4V to .7V - wha=
t good is anything under 1.2V anyway?

=


It's simple - 2 parts! And it's cheap! The variable pot to adjust the =
peak voltage is so cool. set it low for pop pop pop pop type action, or hi=
gh for a long burst. A real 'personality' control for your bots.

=


Checkitout:

=


http://members.home.net/cybug/Chloro/chloro~1.htm

=


Hey, I just bought 20 1381's but I'm not sure when I'm going to use them =
next!

=


=


Now I just have to figure out a circuit that compares the light between t=
wo LDR's or photodiodes and supply's current to one of two sides (constantl=
y adjusting and voltage independent)

=


That way I can build a microbot with a chloroplast engine, 2 motors, 2 ey=
es, and a 1farad supercap. It'll charge for ages, but the discharge will l=
ast about 20 seconds and the bot will be scrambling about constantly turnin=
g every which way under the light. =


=


Any suggestions??

=


=


Thanks,

=


Adam



content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable


http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:o =3D =

"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w =3D =

"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word">
>
Attachment: DGENERATOR>

vLink=3Dpurple>
Hi Adam:

 

The circuit you described is the CYBUG Scarab ( origina=
l cybug =

) with a chloroplast piggybacked as a power source.  The schematics fo=
r the =

CYBUG scarab are on my web page, but I recommend you use NO led and a trans=
istor =

H-bridge instead of the L293 to reduce current consumption by 80%.  Al=
so, =

try to use extremely low power CMOS 555 timers as "synapses" which respond =
with =

different duration pulses to different left/right eye brightness. IV>
 

Bonus is the CYBUG circuit has full reverse and the opt=
ion of =

mounting a hunger instinct or basic stamp on the top.


 

Thanks for trying the Chloroplast

 

Craig


style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0p=
x; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
----- Original Message -----


style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black">Fro=
m: =


title=3Drobotbreeder@telus.net>Robotbreeder


Sent: Thursday, November 11, 1999 =
11:17 =

PM

Subject: Chloroplast




=3DArial =

size=3D2>Hi, I’=
m new to this =

list and am grateful to be introduced to this cool hobby by the very tale=
nted =

Jason Feser  :
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes"> 
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/jfeser/<=">http://members.xoom.com/jfeser/">http://members.xoom.com/jfeser/<=
/A>


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>I feel I mus=
t share =

with you all a discovery:  =

Chloroplast


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>Ok, this eng=
ine =

seriously rocks and is a significant improvement in power and effiency to=
the =

1381.  For those of you who=
don’t =

know, the circuit will charge to 3V (or 5V depending on which part you ge=
t) =

and then continue to charge until a threshold – determined by a var=
iable =

resistor – dumping voltage to whatever and stopping again at 3V (or=
=

5V).


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>Why this =

rules:


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>A constant v=
oltage =

can be maintained, so other circuitry can be piggy-backed to the =

engine.


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>The power pu=
lses are =

strong, like 4V to 3V  inst=
ead of =

2.4V to .7V  - what good is=
=

anything under 1.2V anyway?


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>It’s s=
imple – 2 =

parts!  And it’s chea=
p!
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">   The variable pot to adjus=
t the =

peak voltage is so cool…  SPAN>set it =

low for pop pop pop pop type action, or high for a long burst.
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">  A real ‘personality’=
; control for your =

bots.


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Checkitout: N>


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>
href=3D"http://members=">http://members.home.net/cybug/Chloro/chloro~1.htm">http://members=
.home.net/cybug/Chloro/chloro~1.htm


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>Hey, I just =
bought 20 =

1381’s but I’m not sure when I’m going to use them =

next!


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>Now I just h=
ave to =

figure out a circuit that compares the light between two LDR’s or p=
hotodiodes =

and supply’s current to one of two sides (constantly adjusting and =
voltage =

independent)


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>That way I c=
an build =

a microbot with a chloroplast engine, 2 motors, 2 eyes, and a 1farad =

supercap.  It’ll char=
ge for ages, =

but the discharge will last about 20 seconds and the bot will be scrambli=
ng =

about constantly turning every which way under the light.
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">   =


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>Any =

suggestions??


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Thanks, FONT>


=3DArial =

size=3D2> rtEmptyParas]> 


=3DArial =

size=3D2>
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 10pt">Adam T>





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