Alt-BEAM Archive
Message #02870
To: beam beam@corp.sgi.com
From: Richard Piotter richfile@rconnect.com
Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 20:10:18 -0500
Subject: [alt-beam] Re: was PCB, now cheap drills
I did! One of them, just for the hell of it, I tried to scratch off and
it didn't budge using just my fingernail. I wanted to get them stuck
real good, cause I've had this happen many times before. I used the back
of my x-acto knife and rubbed it from corner to corner. One point, I
tore throught the blue paper thay include with the kits!
Holy cows!!! ten seconds!!! I want to know how you did that! I don't
have anything decent, but the hot water runs EXTREMELY hot im my
apartment, so I get the plastic tray (one of those Microwave dinner
trays! Hehe :) and put it in the sink, I run the hot tap on the side of
the sink, so the hot water flows underneath the container. Get's pretty
warm! I suppose it's not getting warm enough though.
I never risked "nuking" the etxhant in the microwave, cause I've seen
some weird stuff happen in microwaves. Ever throw one of those battery
testers (the little yellow line) in a microwave! They nearly melt in a
sparking frenzy. I never realy thought I could put Feric (Iron) chloride
in a microwave without the metal reacting in some way. Maybe I was
wrong! I should probably look for a glass container though. That'd
probably work nicely.
Dennison wrote:
>
> Ahh, your just not doing it right. After you put the dry transfers onto the
> PCB you need to burnish them really really hard onto the board. Using say
> the back of a spoon. This is super important, you want to grind those
> transfers firmly onto the copper. (Make sure you use the blue wax paper
> stuff over the PCB though) Then when you use the etchant (which by the way
> is standard strength, you can't really, and nor would you want, stronger)
> you need to heat the etchant up. Personally I stick it in the microwave(for
> like 30 secs). BUT I"M NOT RECOMENDING THIS TO ANYONE! There are other
> better methods, little heaters, etc. Once I etched a board in ten seconds.
> You typicaaly want a etch time of five minutes.
>
> Dennison
>
> >Also, beware Radio Shack Etchant and Dry Transfer decals. I could not
> >figure out why they kept lifting! I could even scratch them lightly, and
> >they wouldn't come up! It turns out, the dry transfers were EXPANDING!!!
> >They buckled, and would then lift!!! Anyone know where I can get some
> >stronger etchant?
> >
> >Bruce Robinson wrote:
> >>
> >> Jacob Booth wrote:
> >>
> >> > ... If you keep snapping those tiny drill bits ...
> >>
> >> Or, if you're really desperate and don't have a dremel ... Y'know those
> >> sets of small jewellers screwdrivers? Press down on the top and twist
> >> the body with the thumb & middle finger? Yep, I used the smallest one
> >> once to drill several dozen holes. Yeah, I know, a lot of work, but it
> >> was a holiday weekend and I couldn't wait for the stores to re-open.
> >>
> >> It works, but watch out for blisters.
> >>
> >> Also, James Niemasik wrote:
> >>
> >> > ... use Ferric Chloride or Ammonium Persulvate in crystal (dissolve it)
> >> > or liquid form. Heat the liquid and put the board in, then agitate it
> >> > for 5-25 minutes.
> >>
> >> I found if you leave the board in the etchant too long, it starts to
> >> undercut the masking material or artwork. For fine lines this can be a
> >> pain. A stronger etching solution gets the job done faster and minimizes
> >> undercutting. Take sensible precautions with the etchants -- most of
> >> them are toxic.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >> Bruce
> >
> >--
> >
> >
> >Richard Piotter
> >richfile@rconnect.com
> >
> >The Richfiles Robotics & TI web page:
> >http://richfiles.calc.org
> >
> >For the BEAM Robotics list:
> >BEAM Robotics Tek FAQ
> >http://people.ne.mediaone.net/bushbo/beam/FAQ.html
--
Richard Piotter
richfile@rconnect.com
The Richfiles Robotics & TI web page:
http://richfiles.calc.org
For the BEAM Robotics list:
BEAM Robotics Tek FAQ
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/bushbo/beam/FAQ.html
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